When Poland's Cemeteries Glow
On All Saints' Day, Polish cemeteries fill with red and amber candlelight. The season is called Zaduszki, a day of prayer for the souls. It stayed a day off work even under Communism, and in the nineteenth century it was also how a partitioned nation gathered at the grave.
By C. V. Wooster
On the night of All Saints' Day, Wszystkich Świętych, cemeteries in Poland go red and gold. RTÉ's report from 2 November 2023 describes red and amber candles on the graves, people singing in the cold, and roads busy from early morning because millions of people travel home. They light candles in decorative glass holders called znicze, lay flowers, and pray. In Warsaw's Powązki Cemetery they also leave candles at the graves of patriots, writers, and well-loved actors. It is a public holiday. Culture.pl, the Adam Mickiewicz Institute's magazine, says 1 November stayed free of work even in Communist times, while 2 November, All Souls' Day proper, did not. The season that covers both days is Zaduszki. The word, Culture.pl says, comes from dzień zaduszny, a day of prayer for the souls.
What people do, and what they say the dead do
Culture.pl calls Zaduszki one of the family holidays that rank with Easter and Christmas: you go home, the roads fill, and the accidents rise, which the magazine states as a known and sad fact of the weekend. The visit itself is grave-tending on the first day, continued into the next. That is an interment's afterlife in the most literal sense. The body is already in the ground. The living come back with a candle and a chrysanthemum and stay long enough to talk to cousins.
Encyclopaedia Britannica's account of All Saints' Day puts the same week in a wider frame: both All Saints and All Souls are observed in many places with a visit to the cemetery, a cleaned stone, and a candle. Poland is the country where that visit became the national evening. The folk layer is told, by both Polish sources, as belief rather than as history. Culture.pl says many of the traditions have ancient pagan roots, and then lists what the old beliefs held. The spirits of forefathers returned. If you had to throw water or waste on the ground, you warned the invisible spirits first. Work was avoided, and people went to bed early so as not to interfere. Food was set out. The dead were said to hold their own mass at midnight, and no living person should be found there. RTÉ's phrasing is more distant: the candle custom "is said to date back to pagan times," before Poland's conversion in the late tenth century, and over the centuries it "merged with Catholic liturgy." "Said to" and "have ancient pagan roots" are attributions. They are not a dated rite. The same caution this site uses for Samhain applies here. A living cemetery full of znicze does not require a prehistoric liturgy to be real. The claim of pagan origin is what Poles and their journalists say about the custom. Hutton's standard, in the essay cited on Samhain and All Hallows, is that a medieval record would be the thing that settles such a claim. These articles do not cite one. They cite the belief.
Partitions, Mickiewicz, and a day that stayed off
The nineteenth century is the part with a named historian. Zbigniew Mikołejko, described by RTÉ as director of religious studies at the Polish Academy of Sciences, told the broadcaster that the celebration grew during the partitions, when Poland had been divided among its neighbors. "During times of occupation and partition, Poles celebrated their identity in cemeteries." He pointed to graves of fallen soldiers and to anonymous graves in forests. The patriotic theme, he said, still matters, nationally and locally. A candle at Powązki for a writer or an actor is the same gesture as a candle for a grandparent, moved one plot over. The cemetery is where a nation without a state could still assemble.
Adam Mickiewicz is the literary version of that assembly. Culture.pl says he drew on Dziady, a festival of Slavic and Baltic peoples and an early ancestor of Zaduszki, for the drama Forefathers' Eve. RTÉ says Polish children study that long poem, and that it is set during the night of 1 November, before All Souls on 2 November, with villagers calling to the ghosts of relatives and friends, and with the Russian occupation inside the verse. Dziady in Mickiewicz is a Romantic work about a rite, written in a partitioned country. It is not a field report from the tenth century. It is evidence of what a nineteenth-century poet did with a name. Culture.pl's "early ancestor" is the magazine's historical claim. It should be read as that magazine's claim.
RTÉ also records the present tense. The 2021 census, it says, found 71 percent of the population identifying as Catholic, down from 87 percent a decade earlier. A church-statistics survey it cites found regular mass attendance at 28 percent, against 40 percent in 2011. Halloween costume parties have grown, and the clergy criticizes them. The candle night has not become a costume. The reporter's own memory, of a family drive from Katowice to Wieluń and of cemetery after cemetery glowing on the way home, is journalism, not folklore. It matches the traffic the magazine describes.
A glow with a passport
Zaduszki is the largest ordinary graveyard vigil in Europe that a national holiday still protects. It is Catholic in the calendar, national in the nineteenth-century telling, and domestic in the glass cup of a znicz. The pagan origin is a "said to," and this essay leaves it there. Mexican November visits are another family's room, with a different theology and a different argument about age: Day of the Dead at the grave, and the Yucatán table in Hanal Pixán. The Polish graves that archaeologists read as anti-vampire burials are a different century and a different fear: sickles and a padlock. Zaduszki is not an attempt to keep the dead down. It is an attempt to sit with them, in a coat, with a candle that is meant to last the evening.
Sources
- Liam Nolan, "Why graveyards glowed red in Poland last night," RTÉ News, 2 November 2023. Red and amber candles, znicze, flowers, Powązki, millions traveling, the "said to date back to pagan times" line, Mikołejko on the partitions, and Dziady set on the night of 1 November. https://www.rte.ie/news/europe/2023/1102/1413972-poland-allsaintsday/
- Gabriel Stille, "All Souls' Day: The Tradition of Zaduszki in Poland," Culture.pl, fall 2013. The etymology of Zaduszki, the Communist-era holiday, the folk warnings to spirits, the midnight mass of the dead, and Mickiewicz's use of Dziady. The "ancient pagan roots" line is the magazine's. https://culture.pl/en/article/all-souls-day-the-tradition-of-zaduszki-in-poland
- Encyclopaedia Britannica, "All Saints' Day." Cemetery visits, candles, and the three days from Halloween through All Souls. https://www.britannica.com/topic/All-Saints-Day